Tropic Thunder, Foz do Iguaçu

The air is thick, the smells are strange. For me, it's all these oddities which make the topic regions of the world so appealing. Ice & snow might make the mountain tops gleam with a shroud of elegance and mystery, but I like my days sweat-stained & shoeless; sun-stroked & shameless. Sun shine shapes my photosynthetic soul. On that note, life was back on track more or less the moment I collapsed off that long overnight bus from Buenos Aires, arriving in the very north-eastern most point of Argentinawithout a clue as to what I was doing, and still slightly shaken up from my recent travel confusions. It was exactly what I was craving - the heat, the hecticness; a sense of feeling lost - until at least I realised in I was back in the pack (no shit...) and sheepishly un-lost my way. I had only two objectives to cover; most obviously of course was to see a big waterfall...(quite the understatement) - to witness first hand the magnificence of a natural world wonder, arguably the the most spectacular cascades on the entire planet!! How could I not be feeling more than a little buzzed up?? Secondly, yet in many ways almost as fundamental to the remainder of my trip; was to get myself a visa for Brazil. The wankers back in Buenos Aires wouldn't have a bar of it. I don't really get what all the fuss was about. I walked into the Brazilian consulate there in Puerto Iguazu at about 10:30am, with exactly the same documentation in hand as I had in the capital - 15 minutes later, I'm walking out with my numbered paper slip & instructions to return the following day. How easy was that!! I didn't even need to use my fake air ticket I created on 'paint'. Of course now I could stress less to sleep; there would be no late night secret police detainment anytime soon.

My Brazil visa & ticket to Rio!!

So I was set - a brand new 90 day multi entrance visa. If only I had the 90 days extra to spare. Before leaving Buenos Aires I tried to change the dates of my flights to no avail. It was likely to cost me as much as a fresh ticket, and I sure don't have that kind of money at the moment. Salvador, Venezuala & the rest of The Amazon unfortunately would have to wait; not to mention another sure craic of a time in Cusco. I still believe I am doing the right thing, so I'm gonna stick by it. The best I can now do is to make the most of my time on this continent while I'm actually still here. Live for the moment. It's the best way to be. And so I did my best that following day. It was finally time to pay ol' Iguazu Falls a much overdue friendly visit. It was almost too easy getting out there; they have the whole system running very efficiently. It only took me an hour or so to splash some water over my head, slam down some carb loaded breakfast, and to bus it out to the national park. I payed the entrance fee, and I was in!! The first thing I noticed were all the vermin like coatis, huddling in groups around tree trunks, and every now and then taking a swipe at some poor tourists lunch bag. Shit was going every where. Near the restaurant I witnessed 'super-coati' - he had to be the ring leader. He was so fat he kind of resembled a striped basketball on stubby stilts. After whizzing past a bunch of crippled codgers who were busy taking photos with their over sized & out of place looking Ipads, my first glimpse of the falls came not too far along the Sendero Inferior track. Nothing can prepare you for what you actually witness in real time. It was paradise. Water was coming out of everywhere!! The bright greens of the lush vegetation contrasted quite wholly with the clear blue skies, and the white wash of the plummeting river. I took a moment for admiration, while there was still few people around; then got involved with some goofy self portraits.

First glimpse of Iguazu Falls

It seemed appropriate to see the falls from a distance first. That initial excitement is only heightened as you edge nearer. It's hard to fully understand the magnitude of this place until you have been there. Photos do not do it justice. It's more than just what you see...it's the thundering sounds, the rain like smell, & the cool presence of the engulfing mist as it soaks you completely. Everywhere I looked took my breath away. Any one of these individual falls would be worth a three or four hour hike in it's own right. One of my favourite spots at the entire park, was the view point next to San Martin Falls; across the from the mainland via a free ferry, on an island surrounded by the river. I could only take a few photos from this spot, as my camera was copping a pounding and soon shut down. In less than a minute I was drenched. Standing up on the rails, one could see down into the torrents below; and as the sun shone strong from above, rainbows formed to cross the divide. A magical place.

Rainbows from San Martin Island

Returning from the island, I completed the lower circuit & took a bit of a break in the shade of the big lighthouse. Coatis were continuing to run riot on the unsuspecting tourists. Even some monkeys came out to play. Climbing above the falls provided another perspective entirely. The Sendero Superior track hugs the cliff faces, and affords wide vistas over the entire area. There were a lot more people around by the afternoon. I was glad I'd got there early. It wasn't hard however to block out the mobs. I kept picturing Indiana Jones like moments where the safety of a river raft becomes yet another sticky situation as the rapids increasingly pick up speed, until the water world abruptly comes to a hair-raising tumbling end. The hero however always survives. I wonder how I'd go??

Hangin' out up top

I had a similar inclining at the parks centre piece, and my final destination for the day. After a quick train ride through the jungle, and a short platformed walk across many interconnected river passages; I arrived at the Garganta del Diablo (devils throat), an immense U shaped cut out of an imaginary plateau, where the river (in an almost lake like expanse) plunges heavily into the the void. It was reminiscent of what I pictured a black-hole would look like - or the churning's of a bathroom plug; the water just got gurgled up, spat back out, & shot down the valley below. I didn't want to leave. It's tough when you know you'll most likely never visit a place like this ever again. Shucks...I decided then I'd be back tomorrow.

Falls around the Garganta del Diablo

I was burning up by the time I got back into town. It was super hot, and super humid. I splashed about in the hostels pool like a summer child. Today had been pretty special. Later than night I got a tip off from a Dutch girl I'd met diving in Puerto Madryn, and we met up for a drink at one of the local guzzlers. It's amazing how much can change in just a few days. I was so complacent right now. It just goes to show that when times are tough, tomorrow is always a brighter day.

And it was. It was stinking hot yet again!! Too good. I packed up my stuff, crushed chow, & made for another country - Brazil. How bloody celebratory. I'd never dreamed of making it this far: it was hard to believe it was finally happening. I picked up my visa, and crossed the border. As simple as that. Now I could make some ground. When I got into Foz do Iguaçu, the larger Brazilian town on the opposite side of the river, there were a number of things I urgently had to attend to if all was to run smoothly for the next few days. First I needed a bed. Done. A cheap option just down from the urban bus terminal. Then I needed some cash. There were some ATM's nearby at the supermarket but I had a bunch of trouble withdrawing anything at all from most of them. Suspiciously, the security guard helped me out which I normally don't allow, but in this instance I was helpless. Portuguese is hard!! It's so frustrating at this point, coming so far in my español, only for a shift of country to counter that progression. It was so similar yet so different. Out of habit I couldn't stop saying 'hola!!'...or 'gracias!!'  I only hope the big pig was genuinely being nice & didn't rob me. So anyway, I was all moneyed-up; now I needed to buy a bus ticket out of here. Where better than to Rio de Janeiro!! Holy fuck...I couldn't believe I was actually going there. The city of all cities - the 'City of God.' We'll leave that one now for another chapter...

Once all the necessities were dealt with, I could now vamanos off to re-visit the falls. On the bus I met two cool Swedish guys, and found it easy to tag along with them. However waiting in the line for tickets, this Israeli girl must have picked up on my accent and barged in on our conversation. 'Hey you're Australian yeaa??'...well that's not all that hard to see - 'I lived in Australia for a while, you should come into the park with us, come on, up here!!...'  geee, I'm not the biggest fan of cutting lines but she was pretty persistent. Plus, one of her friends was smoking hot. This could be fun. Well let's just say it was for a while. I soon got the jist that this was one of those possessive freakos. She was nice enough, but I just couldn't shake her. Soon I was taking photos for her, holding her bag, needing to wait up for her & listening to her bitch about the other two girls. 'Chill the fuck out mate!!' The other chicks were sound, this girl was mental. One time I walked off to take some photos and she got pissed cause I hadn't waited for her to catch up. The best was when I told her I'd been planning to go to Ilha Grande in the next few weeks, and then she pressed that I changed my ticket to Rio so we could go together. This was getting ridiculous. I just wanted to watch the falls in silence!! Ahhh, you can't win 'em all Nicko...I was pretty happy with the day despite. The Brazilian side offered the best panoramic of the entire stretch of the waterfalls. I just blocked the girl out while I got rained on by the refreshing spray.

Brazilian side of Iguaçu

Everyone had ditched me with the evil one. I was on my own. She started hounding poor unsuspecting folk about the buses, so I just bailed. I had better people to waste my time on. Back in town I had myself a mad pay by weight buffet, and chatted the night away on the adjoining outside veranda bar with a pair of Czech lads, a crazy German, and two young students from Portugal; accompanied of course by the indulgment of one too many caipirinhas. These guys only further intrigued me with hopes of Europe. If all worked out it was gonna be a hoot. Things will work out. I will be a hoot!! I couldn't believe my luck (or chance) the next day when I'd wandered out to get some supplies for the upcoming bus trip. 'Oi!!' I looked up, and to my amazement, there was Goldilocks poking his head out the hostel window; the same hostel I was in!! What were the chances. We caught up on old times, shared some new tales & was introduced to his famous poker playing brother, BlackJack. We plan to meet back up at some point - maybe Ilha Grande. I'd sure rather have some back up against that serial killer she-Jew. Can't wait. For now, it's off to Rio de Janiero!! HAPPY 'STRAYA DAY!! Best day on the bloody planet!! See you on Copacabana beach ...

The River Gurgling in the Devils Throat

...life is good, hope everyone agrees. 
Much lovin' RadDawg. xxx